First Aid Basics for Pets: A Guide for Pet Emergencies

When faced with a pet emergency, knowing what to do can make all the difference. Here are some first aid basics for common pet emergencies, along with steps to take to ensure your pet gets the care they need.

Seizures

Witnessing your pet having a seizure can be distressing, but staying calm is crucial. To keep your pet safe, clear the area of any hard or sharp objects that could cause injury. Pay close attention to their head, as they may inadvertently strike it against furniture or walls. Avoid trying to restrain your pet, as this could cause them to react unpredictably. Instead, focus on timing the seizure, as your vet will need this information to determine the severity of the situation.

Once the seizure stops, keep your pet warm and in a quiet, safe space. Monitor their behaviour closely, as post-seizure disorientation is common. Contact your vet immediately to discuss what happened and receive further instructions. If your pet experiences multiple seizures in a short time or has a seizure lasting longer than five minutes, it’s a medical emergency—take them to a vet or animal hospital without delay.

Key action: Keep your pet safe by clearing the area of any hard or sharp objects, especially their head. Do not try to restrain them. Time the seizure, and once it stops, keep your pet warm and quiet. Contact your vet for further instructions.

Poisoning

If you suspect your pet has ingested something toxic, act quickly. Remove any remaining substance from their mouth, if possible, and try to identify what they ingested. Common household toxins include chocolate, rat bait, medications, Xylitol (commonly found in chewing gum), certain houseplants, and foods like onions, pits of stone fruits or grapes. Call your vet or the Animal Poisons Helpline (1300 869 738) for advice specific to the toxin.

Do not induce vomiting unless instructed by a professional, as some substances can cause more harm when vomited. For example, certain cleaning chemicals or oils can cause severe burns to the oesophagus if regurgitated. In some cases, your vet may advise bringing your pet in for treatment to administer activated charcoal or other antidotes. Keep the packaging of the suspected poison handy, as it can provide critical information for treatment.

Key action: If you think your pet has swallowed something toxic, try to remove it from their mouth and call your vet or the Animal Poisons helpline (1300 869 738) immediately. Don’t make your pet vomit unless explicitly instructed.

Cuts and Scrapes

Minor cuts and scrapes can often be treated at home with basic first aid, but it’s essential to know when professional care is needed. Start by cleaning the wound with pet-safe antiseptic wipes or saline solution to remove dirt and debris. Avoid using hydrogen peroxide or alcohol, as these can irritate or delay healing.

Once the wound is clean, cover it with a sterile gauze pad and secure it gently with adhesive tape. If the cut is bleeding heavily, apply firm but gentle pressure with a clean cloth or gauze until the bleeding stops. If the wound is deep, won’t stop bleeding, or shows signs of infection (such as swelling, redness, or discharge), seek immediate veterinary care.

Key point: Clean the wound with antiseptic wipes and cover it with a clean gauze pad secured with tape. For heavy bleeding, apply direct pressure and seek vet care right away.

Car Accidents

Even if your pet seems unharmed after being hit by a car, they may have internal injuries or fractures that aren’t immediately visible. Ensure your own safety first by securing the area and moving your pet out of the roadway. Use a blanket or towel to carefully lift them, supporting their head and body to minimise movement.

Contact your vet or an emergency animal hospital right away, explaining what happened and describing your pet’s condition. Keep your pet as calm and still as possible during transport. Remember, adrenaline may temporarily mask pain in your pet, so don’t assume they’re okay just because they’re not visibly distressed.

Key action: Car accidents can cause severe injuries like broken bones and internal damage, even if your pet seems fine. If your pet is hit by a car, ensure your safety first, secure the area, and get them to an emergency vet right away.

Heatstroke

Heatstroke is a life-threatening condition that occurs when your pet’s body overheats and can’t cool itself down. Breeds with flat faces, such as Bulldogs and Pugs, are particularly susceptible, as are pets left in hot environments or exercising in high temperatures.

If you suspect heatstroke, act immediately. Move your pet to a shaded or air-conditioned area and begin cooling them down. Use lukewarm water (never ice-cold) to wet their body, avoiding the face, and use a fan to increase air circulation. Offer small amounts of cool water to drink but don’t force them to drink too much too quickly, as this can lead to vomiting.

Even if your pet starts to recover, heatstroke can cause internal damage, so a vet visit is essential. 

Key action: Heat stroke is a serious condition needing immediate vet care. If you suspect heat stroke, move your pet to a cooler place, cool them with water (avoid their face), use a fan, and offer water.

The history of pet insurance

What is pet insurance?

Pet Insurance is a form of insurance available to pet owners to help cover their pet for accidental injuries and illnesses, by reimbursing a portion of the veterinary costs to treat their pet.

Pet insurance acts as a financial safety net, helping cover unexpected veterinary costs if your pet needs treatment. Some medical expenses can run into the tens of thousands, and having a pet insurance plan can significantly reduce the financial burden and stress during difficult times.

History & evolution

Insurance for animals began in Sweden in 1890, when Claes Virgin wrote the first policy for horses and livestock. The pet insurance policy for pets like cats and dogs was first sold in Britain in 1947. By 2009, Britain had one of the highest rates of pet insurance, second only to Sweden.

In the U.S., pet insurance started in 1982, with the first policy issued to the famous TV dog, Lassie.

Pet insurance works a bit differently than health insurance for human — it’s more like property insurance. After your pet receives care, you pay the vet and then send a claim to your insurance company to get reimbursed.

One fun fact: Since 2009, the Hambone Award has been given each year to a pet with the most unusual insurance claim. Its name comes from an unnamed dog who reportedly was trapped in a refrigerator and suffered from mild hypothermia, eating an entire holiday ham while waiting for rescue.

Pet insurance policies can have different coverage limits: some have limits per condition, some have limits per condition per year, and others have one overall limit per year. This affects how much you can claim if your pet needs multiple treatments.

Pre-existing conditions are often not covered, which is why it’s recommended to insure pets early before any health issues arise.

There’s usually a period of time when you can’t claim for accidents or illnesses right after getting a policy. This ensures coverage is for new injuries or illnesses that show up after you’re insured.

Pet insurance today

Today, pet insurance in Australia is becoming increasingly popular as more pet parents seek to protect their furry companions from unexpected vet bills. With a variety of pet insurance policies available, coverage can range from basic accident-only policies to more comprehensive options that include illnesses, routine care, and wellness treatments. Many Australian insurers now offer flexible plans with different benefit limits and extras, giving pet parents the ability to choose coverage that fits their budget and needs.

Understanding Pet Insurance

How pet insurance works: A quick overview

Pet insurance helps cover the cost of unexpected vet bills. After your pet receives care, you pay the vet, submit a claim, and get reimbursed based on your policy’s coverage. Policies usually cover accidents, illnesses, and sometimes routine care, depending on the plan. There are limits to how much you can claim, and pre-existing conditions are generally not covered. Most policies also have a waiting period before coverage kicks in for certain conditions. Pet insurance gives peace of mind by helping to manage unexpected medical costs for your pet.

In Australia, pet insurance typically offers several types of coverage. These can vary among different providers, but the main types include:

Accident-Only Cover: This only covers costs related to injuries from accidental injuries, such as broken bones or wounds. It doesn’t cover illness-related expenses.

Accident and Illness Cover: This is a more well-rounded coverage option that covers both accidental injuries and illnesses. It can include coverage for a wide range of conditions, from minor issues, like infections and allergies, to more serious diseases like cancer.

Accident and Illness Cover with add-ons: Some plans also cover routine care treatments like vaccinations, desexing, and flea and tick treatments, along with accidental injuries and illnesses.

Routine Care: Can be offered as an optional add-on, which helps to cover some costs for preventative care and wellness treatments, such as vaccinations, microchipping, and desexing. The coverage limits for these treatments are usually lower than for other claimable conditions.

Key insurance terms you need to know

Common insurance terms you’ll come across when comparing different providers.

Annual Limit: The maximum amount your pet insurance will pay for all claims in one year. Once this limit is reached, you’ll need to cover any additional costs yourself until the next policy year.

Benefit Percentage: The percentage of each eligible vet bill your insurance will cover. For instance, if your benefit percentage is 80%, the insurance will pay 80% of the bill, and you’ll pay the remaining 20% (after any excess is applied).

Excess: The amount you have to pay out of pocket before your insurance starts covering costs. It can be a fixed amount per claim, per condition or per policy year.

Sub-limits: Specific limits under your policy for certain types of treatments or conditions. For example, there might be a sub-limit placed on high cost treatments.

Exclusion Periods (Waiting Periods): The period of time after you start your policy during which you can’t make a claim for treatments. If your pet gets sick or injured during this period, the costs won’t be covered by the insurance.

Pre Existing Conditions: Any signs or symptoms of conditions your pet had before your insurance policy started, including during any exclusion periods. Pre-existing conditions are generally not covered by pet insurance policies.

Differences between pet insurance and human health insurance

While both health insurance and pet insurance help cover medical costs, they work a bit differently. Health insurance for humans usually pays the doctor directly, while pet insurance typically requires you to pay the vet upfront, then submit a claim for reimbursement. Pet insurance is more like property insurance, focusing on accidents, illnesses, and sometimes routine care, but it usually doesn’t cover pre-existing conditions or preventative care the same way human health insurance might. Additionally, pet insurance policies often have annual or per-condition limits on how much can be claimed.

Unlike humans in Australia, who are covered by Medicare for many healthcare costs, pets do not have a government healthcare system. Pet insurance works more like property insurance, requiring you to pay the vet upfront and then submit a claim for reimbursement. While health insurance for humans often covers a broad range of care through Medicare, pet insurance focuses on accidents, illnesses, and sometimes routine treatments. However, it typically doesn’t cover pre-existing conditions or offer the same level of comprehensive care that Medicare does for people, making pet insurance an important option to manage unexpected vet bills for pet owners.

Key considerations when choosing pet insurance

When choosing pet insurance, consider several key factors. First, think about your pet’s specific coverage needs and whether the policy allows customisation, such as adjusting the excess, annual limit, and benefit percentage. Next, evaluate the claims process: great customer service and a straightforward, quick claims experience can make a big difference in your overall pet insurance experience. Also, consider the costs —lower premiums could mean less coverage, and check for any payout limits on specific conditions. Finally, decide on the type of excess that works best for your budget.

Importance of pet insurance

Pet insurance plays an important part of responsible pet ownership. Caring for pets can be expensive and vet bills can quickly add up, especially in emergencies.

Pet insurance acts as a financial safety net, helping cover unexpected veterinary costs if your pet needs treatment. Some medical expenses can run into the tens of thousands, and having a pet insurance plan can significantly reduce the financial burden and stress during difficult times.

Pet Insurance for puppies and kittens

Starting your pet insurance when your pet is young and healthy could minimise the chances of your pet having any Pre-existing Conditions that may not be covered later. Insuring them early can help to ensure they receive extensive coverage without the worry of expensive vet bills.

Pet Insurance for older pets

If you’ve adopted an older pet, chances are your new friend will have at least one or two existing health issues, even if they’re fairly minor and under control. Older pets need extra love and attention and taking in an older pet means potentially bearing the high cost of caring for them as well. Whilst pet insurance can’t cover Pre-existing Conditions, it can still be a lifeline in avoiding potentially large vet bills and be your ticket to affording the level of care for any new health issues or accidental injuries that arise.

Setting Yourself Up for Pet Insurance Success

How to be prepared for emergencies

Emergencies can happen anytime, so it’s important to have a plan in place. Keep your vet’s contact information, a 24-hour emergency clinic contact details, and your pet insurance policy number in an easily accessible location. Ensure your policy covers emergency visits and have an emergency fund to cover upfront costs before your claim is processed.

Navigating vet visits with insurance

When visiting the vet, let them know you have pet insurance. Ask for detailed invoices and make sure you have all the necessary paperwork to submit a claim. Familiarising yourself with your pet insurance claim process so you’re across the information required to avoid delays.

After your pet has received treatment, you can usually ask your vet to submit the claim for you when you’re at the clinic, by providing your policy number or asking the clinic to submit the invoice or history through to your insurance provider.

Getting the most out of your policy

To make the most out of your pet insurance, understand what’s covered and what’s not. Staying organised with medical records and policy details can streamline claims assessment process. Regular vet check-ups can also help identify health issues early, reducing the risk of them becoming serious and avoiding expensive vet bills later on.

Petsy Pet Insurance

Established in 2019, Petsy is a leading pet insurance provider in Australia offering extensive coverage and exceptional service to pet owners nationwide. With a deep understanding of the needs and financial circumstances of pet owners, Petsy aims to deliver peace of mind and support during unexpected veterinary emergencies. Petsy is committed to transparency and providing innovative solutions that prioritise the well-being of our beloved pets.

We offer coverage up to $30,000 annually to help cover eligible vet bills for pet owners if their pet runs into an unexpected mishap, with no sub-limits on any of the conditions you can claim.

With Petsy pet insurance, pet owners can rest easy knowing that expenses for costly vet treatments (and more) can be reimbursed, allowing pet parents to focus on their pet’s well-being instead of the financial burden. It also minimises the need to make difficult choices about a pet’s treatments, due to financial constraints.

The extensive list of hundreds and hundreds of Conditions Covered by Petsy Pet Insurance under our Pet Insurance Policy

Did you know at Petsy, we offer extensive coverage for hundreds of types of pet accidents, illnesses and conditions?

Unlike most pet insurance policies, we also have no sub-limits attached to your inclusions which means no extra limits placed on veterinary expenses for treating certain conditions.

Check out our extensive list of conditions below…

  • Abdominal hernia
  • Abnormal heat/season
  • Abnormal tooth growth/location
  • Abnormal value
  • Abscess
  • Acne
  • Acral lick granulomas
  • Addison’s disease (hypoadrenocorticism)
  • Aggression
  • Allergic (hypersensitivity) reaction
  • Alopecia
  • Anaemia
  • Anal abscess
  • Anal adenoma (benign tumour)
  • Anal furunculosis (perianal fisula, pyoderma, sinus)
  • Anal gland impaction / expression
  • Anal gland infection
  • Anal gland sacculitis
  • Anaphylatic shock
  • Anaphylaxis
  • Anorexia
  • Arteriosclerosis
  • Arthritis and degenerative joint disease of the back
  • Arthritis and degenerative joint disease of the jaw/mandible
  • Arthritis and degenerative joint disease of the pelvis
  • Arthritis of the foot or feet
  • Arthritis of the legs, hips or shoulders
  • Asthma
  • Ataxia
  • Atopy
  • Atrial fibrillation
  • Aural polyps
  • Aural resection
  • Autoimmune disease
  • Axilla injury (arm pit)
  • Bacillius infection
  • Back pain
  • Bacterial infections
  • Bacterial overgrowth
  • Balanitis (inflammation of the glans penis)
  • Base narrow jaw
  • Benign tumours
  • Bite wound
  • Bladder rupture
  • Bladder stones (cystic calculi)
  • Blepharitis
  • Blocked tear duct
  • Blood parasites
  • Bone marrow disease
  • Bordatella bronchiseptica
  • Bowel problems
  • Brachycephalic syndrome
  • Brain haemorrhage
  • Bronchitis
  • Bronzing syndrome
  • Bruising
  • Burns
  • Bursitis
  • Caecal impaction
  • Calcium deficiency
  • Calicivirus
  • Callus
  • Campylobacter
  • Cancer or Malignant tumours
  • Canine cough/Infectious tracheitits
  • Cardiac arrhythmia
  • Cardiomyopathy
  • Cartilage injury
  • Cat fight
  • Cat flu
  • Cataract(s)
  • Cattle tick
  • Cellulitis
  • Cerebral oedema
  • Cervical spondylopathy
  • Cervical vertebrae
  • Check up post fall
  • Cherry Eye
  • Chlamydia (Feline chlamydia)
  • Cholangitis
  • Chondrodysplasia
  • Chronic radiculomyelinopathy (CDRM)
  • Circulation disorders
  • Cirrhosis
  • Cleft palate
  • Coccidiosis
  • Colic
  • Colitis
  • Concussion
  • Congenital heart defect
  • Congestive heart failure
  • Conjunctivitis or Eye infection
  • Constipation
  • Coprophagia (faeces eating)
  • Corneal ulcer
  • Cough
  • Craniomandibular
  • Cruciate ligament rupture
  • Cryptosporidiosis
  • Crystaluria
  • Cushing’s disease (hyperadrenocorticism)
  • Cut pad
  • Cystic ovaries
  • Cystitis
  • Cysts
  • Decayed teeth
  • Degenerative joint disease (DJD)
  • Demodectic mange
  • Dermatitis
  • Dermatomycosis
  • Dermoid (ocular dermoid)
  • Desexing – complications
  • Dew claw fracture/injury/tear
  • Dew claw infection
  • Diabetes insipidus
  • Diabetes mellitus
  • Diaphragmatic Hernia
  • Diarrhoea
  • Digestive disorders
  • Disc luxuation or prolapsed disc
  • Disc problems
  • Dislocated hip
  • Dislocated sacrum
  • Dislocated shoulder
  • Distemper
  • Dog fight
  • Drowning
  • Dysphagia (difficulty swallowing)
  • Ear abscess
  • Ear haematoma
  • Ear infection (bacterial or yeast)
  • Ear mites
  • Ectropion (out turned eyelid)
  • Eczema
  • Elbow dysplasia
  • Elective Surgery
  • Electrocution
  • Elongated soft palate
  • Emergency Boarding
  • Emphysema
  • Encephalitis
  • Endocarditis
  • Endometritis
  • Enteritis
  • Entropion (in turned eyelid)
  • Epilepsy
  • Epiphora (Watery eyes)
  • Epistaxis (nasal bleeding)
  • Epulis (benign tumour of the mouth)
  • Euthanasia
  • Facial abscess(es)
  • Fainting/collapse
  • False pregancy
  • Feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV)
  • Feline infectious peritonitis
  • Feline Leukaemia virus (FeLV)
  • Feline lower urinary tract disease
  • Feline Odontoclastic
  • Resorptive Lesion/s (FORLS)
  • Feline panleukopenia (FPL)
  • Feline pneumonitis
  • Fibroma
  • Fibromatosis
  • Flail chest
  • Flea bite allergy (flea allergy dermatitis)
  • Fly strike (myasis)
  • Food allergy
  • Foreign body (intestinal)
  • Fractured hip
  • Fractured jaw
  • Fractured knee (stifle)
  • Fractured knee cap (patella)
  • Fractured leg
  • Fractured nail
  • Fractured pelvis
  • Fractured rib(s)
  • Fractured scapula
  • Fractured skull
  • Fractured spine
  • Fractured toe
  • Fractured tooth
  • Fractured vertebrae
  • Fungal infection
  • Fur mites (cheylettiella)
  • Furunculosis
  • Gall bladder infection
  • Gall bladder inflammation
  • Gall bladder mucocoele
  • Gall stones
  • Gastric dilation
  • Gastric dilation (bloat, gastric dilation) and volvulus – GDV or gastric distension
  • Gastric torsion
  • Gastric ulcers
  • Gastritis
  • Gastroenteritis
  • General anxiety
  • Giardia
  • Gingivitis
  • Glaucoma
  • Glossitis (inflamed tongue)
  • Granulomas (other than lick granulomas)
  • Grass allergy
  • Grass seeds
  • Growing pains
  • Growth plate disorders
  • Growths or tumour (neoplasia)
  • Gunshot wound
  • Haematoma (other than ear haematoma)
  • Haematuria (blood in urine)
  • Haemophilia
  • Hair balls
  • Halitosis
  • Harderian gland infection
  • Hay fever
  • Hearing loss or impairment
  • Heart attack
  • Heart block
  • Heart murmur
  • Heart worm
  • Heat stroke
  • Hemangioma
  • Hepatic lobe torsion
  • Hepatitis
  • Hermaphroditism
  • Hernia
  • Herpes
  • Hip dysplasia
  • Histiocytoma
  • Hit by car
  • Hook worm
  • Hormone/endocrine disorder or deficiency
  • Horner’s syndrome
  • Hydronephrosis
  • Hyperplasia
  • Hypersexuality
  • Hyperthyroidism
  • Hypothryroidism
  • Hysteria
  • Impaired vision or blindness
  • Inappropriate urination
  • Incontinence
  • Incoordination
  • Inflammatory Bowel
  • Disease (IBD)
  • Inguinal hernia
  • Injured back or spine
  • Injured ear
  • Injured eye(s)
  • Injured face
  • Injured groin
  • Injured head
  • Injured jaw/mandible
  • Injured mammary glands
  • Injured mouth
  • Injured muscle
  • Injured nail
  • Injured neck
  • Injured nose/nostril
  • Injured pad(s)
  • Injured pelvis
  • Injured throat
  • Injured(lame) foot/Injured toe/injured pad
  • Injured/docked tail
  • Insect stings or Fleas
  • Interdigital cyst
  • Interdigital dermatitis
  • Intestinal impaction/obstruction
  • Intestinal parasites
  • Intussusception
  • Intervertebral disc disease
  • Iritis
  • Jaundice
  • Joint pain
  • Keratitis
  • Keratoconjunctivitis sicca (dry eye)
  • Key-Gaskell syndrome
  • Kidney failure
  • Kidney infection
  • Knee/Joint arthritis
  • Lameness (undiagnosed)
  • Lameness or injury to carpus/metacarpus area
  • Lameness or injury to hip
  • Lameness or injury to knee (stifle)
  • Lameness or injury to leg
  • Lameness or injury to shoulder
  • Lameness or injury to tarsus/metatarsus area
  • Lameness or injury to thigh
  • Lameness or injury to tibia
  • Laryngeal paralysis
  • Laryngitis
  • Legge Perthes’ disease
  • Lens luxation
  • Leptospirosis
  • Lethargy/Unwell
  • Leukaemia
  • Ligament injury
  • Lipoma
  • Listeriosis
  • Liver failure
  • Liver fluke
  • Liver infection
  • Lump(s)
  • Lung worm
  • Lymes disease
  • Lymphadenitis
  • Lymphangitis
  • Lymphoma
  • Lymphosarcoma
  • Malabsorption malformation
  • Malocclusion
  • Mammary abscess
  • Mammary growths
  • Mammary hypoplasia
  • Mammary tumour
  • Mammary warts
  • Mange (mites)
  • Mast cell tumour
  • Mastitis
  • Megaoesophagus
  • Melanoma
  • Melena (blood in faeces)
  • Meningitis
  • Metritis
  • Microphthalmia
  • Milk allergy
  • Mineral deficiency
  • Mitral valve insufficiency
  • Mouth abscess(es)
  • Mouth ulcer
  • Mucoid enteropathy
  • Muscle spasm
  • Muscle tremors
  • Nail bed infection or paronychia
  • Nasal congestion
  • Nasal infection/discharge
  • Nephritis
  • Neural angiostrongylosis
  • Neuritis
  • Neurosis
  • Noise Phobia
  • Obesity
  • Orchitis (inflamed testes)
  • Osteochondritis dissecans (OCD)
  • Osteomyelitis (inflammation of the bone)
  • Osteopathy
  • Osteosarcoma
  • Otitis
  • Ovarian cyst
  • Ovarian tumour
  • Overbite
  • Pad infection (interdigital dermatitis) (bacterial or yeast)
  • Pancreatic insufficiency
  • Pancreatitis
  • Panniculitis
  • Pannus
  • Panoesteitis
  • Papilloma (Viral)
  • Papillomatosis
  • Paralysis
  • Paralysis tick
  • Paraphimosis
  • Parasitic infection
  • Parvovirus
  • Pasteurella
  • Patella luxation
  • Pathological Fracture
  • Penile infection
  • Penile or sheath injury
  • Perineal hernia
  • Periodontal disease /Dental disease
  • Periostitis
  • Peritonitis
  • Pharyngitis
  • Photosensitive dermatitis
  • Pica
  • Pin worm (oxyurasis)
  • Pleurisy
  • Pneumonia
  • Poisoning
  • Polydipsia
  • Polyphagia
  • Polyps
  • Polyuria
  • Portosystemic shunt
  • Poxvirus
  • Progressive retinal atrophy
  • Prolapsed uterus
  • Prolapsed vagina
  • Prostatic abscess
  • Prostatic tumour
  • Pruritis
  • Pseudotuberculosis
  • Pulmonary congestion or oedema
  • Pyloric stenosis
  • Pyoderma
  • Pyometra
  • Pyrexia
  • Radial paralysis
  • Rage syndrome
  • Ranula(s)
  • Reaction to medicine
  • Reaction to vaccine
  • Recessed/hooded vulva
  • Rectal prolapse
  • Regurgitation
  • Retained milk teeth /
  • Retained Deciduous teeth
  • Retained testes (cryptorchid)
  • Reverse sneezing
  • Rheumatism/inflammatory arthropathy
  • Rhinitis
  • Rickets
  • Ringworm
  • Rodent ulcer
  • Ruptured diaphragm
  • Sacroiliac sprain or strain
  • Salivary cyst
  • Salivary gland inflammation
  • Salmonella
  • Sarcoptic mange
  • Scleritis
  • Screw-tail / cork-screw tail
  • Scrotal eczema
  • Scrotal hernia
  • Seizures
  • Separation anxiety
  • Septicaemia
  • Seroma
  • Severed tendons
  • Shaker Dog Syndrome
  • Shoulder arthritis
  • Sinus tract (draining sinus tract)
  • Situational anxiety
  • Skin allergies
  • Skin infection
  • Skin injury
  • Skin lesions
  • Snake Bite
  • Sneezing or wheeze
  • Snuffles – Cat
  • Soft tissue injury
  • Sore hocks (ulcerative pododermatitis)
  • Spinal disorders
  • Spinal dysfunction
  • Splay leg
  • Splenic tumour
  • Spondylitis
  • Spondylosis
  • Staph dermatitis/infection (Staphlococcus) or
  • Staph hypersensitivity
  • Stenotic nares
  • Stomatitis (inflammed mouth)
  • Strabismus
  • Strained/sprained muscle
  • Stroke
  • Synovitis
  • Systemic lupus erythematosus (SLE) (cutaneous or discoid)
  • Tail gland hyperplasia (precaudal gland, stud tail)
  • Tail paralysis
  • Tail ulceration
  • Tapeworm
  • Tartar / Calculus
  • Teeth sepsis
  • Teeth/tooth abscess
  • Tendon injury
  • Tendon ulceration
  • Testicular tumour
  • Tetanus
  • Third eyelid prolapse (cherry eye)
  • Throat infection
  • Thrombosis
  • Thryoid hyperplasia
  • Tibial crest avulsion
  • Tick bite
  • Toe infection
  • Tongue injury
  • Tonsilitis
  • Torn ligament
  • Torn muscle
  • Torticollis (wryneck)
  • Toxaemia
  • Toxoplasmosis
  • Trachea collapse
  • Tracheitis
  • Trapped nerve
  • Trichiasis and distichiasis
  • Tuberculosis
  • Umbilical hernia
  • Underbite
  • Upper respiratory tract infection
  • Uremia
  • Urethral obstruction
  • Urinary tract infection
  • Urinary tract obstruction
  • Urticaria
  • Uveitis
  • Vaginitis
  • Valgus / Varus deviation (Angular limb)
  • Vestibular syndrome
  • Viral hepatitis
  • Viral infections
  • Vomiting
  • Vomiting / Nausea (Travel sickness)
  • Vomiting and diarrhoea
  • Von Willebrands disease
  • Wart(s)
  • Wax
  • Weight loss
  • Wobbler syndrome
  • Worms

No Sub Limits

Most pet insurance policies in Australia have a number of sub limits. 

Petsy has NO SUB LIMITS

What is a Sub Limit?

Also known as a “condition limit” or “per incident limit”, a sub limit acts as a ceiling limiting claims made on a pet insurance policy per year (period of insurance), for treating certain conditions.

A sub limit adds an extra limit on certain veterinary expenses, common examples including limits on cruciate ligament surgery, hip dysplasia, dental illness and/or vet consultations. 

Having no sub limits means that there will be no extra limits placed on any veterinary expenses if you choose Petsy, enabling you to be able to claim up to (a maximum) of $10,000 or $25,000.

Just like most pet insurance policies, cover will start after the applicable Waiting Period has elapsed. Any Injury, Illness, or Specified Condition that occurs during the applicable Waiting Period, will also be deemed to be a Pre-existing Condition. 

  • 1 Day Waiting Period for Accidental Injury (except Specified Conditions)
  • 14 days Waiting Period for Illness (except Specified Conditions)
  • 14 days Waiting Period for Dental Illness pets under 1 year old (6 months if pet is 1 year or older)
  • 6 months Waiting Period for Specified Conditions and Behavioural Conditions

We understand that Your puppy, kitten, dog or cat may be perfectly healthy so, we give Petsy Policyholders the opportunity to reduce most 6 month Waiting Periods. Find out more here

Accidental injuries and illness

FracturesConsist of a break and/or crack in the continuity of any bone(s) in the body. The bone(s) may be completely or partially fractured. Bone fractures are often a result of trauma, fall or injuries but can also be a result of illness or a specified condition. Also known as: Broken bones E.g. A cat jumped from the balcony and broke its left forelimb.
PoisoningDisease due to swallowing, inhaling, injection or absorption through the skin of various toxic compounds such as chemicals, gases, drugs and radiation. Ingestion of chocolate is toxic to dogs and would be considered poisoning. Also known as: Toxicity E.g. A dog swallows bleach from the laundry.
Acute Allergic reactionsConsist of the immune system overreacting against a substance recognised as foreign to the body. The signs and symptoms vary largely depending on the type of allergy and individual patients which could impact the immune-system, skin, cardiorespiratory system and/or gastrointestinal system of your pet. E.g. A dog has an acute anaphylactic reaction to a bee
Bite or fight woundsRelates to any condition that occurred from the altercation between two or more animals. In dogs, fighting wounds can result in deep soft tissue punctures and devitalised skin. Whereas in cats, puncture wounds are not always evident but can result in infection and abscesses. Also known as: Wound from an attack E.g. A dog is attacked by another dog in an off-leash park.
Ingestion of foreign objectsConsist of ingestion of an object that could result in issues due to various reasons such as obstruction of the gastrointestinal tract. Although most foreign body ingestion will not result in disease some can be fatal and are true emergency scenarios. Also known as: Your pet swallowed or ate something they should not swallow. E.g: A dog eating a sock or a cat eating part of its toys. In some instances where a pet repeatedly ingests non-food based objects an underlying behavioural condition may be present.
Gastrointestinal problemsBroad category of medical conditions related to diseases involving the gastrointestinal tract and accessory organs of digestion such as the liver and pancreas. The signs and symptoms are various but most commonly includes vomiting and diarrhoea. Also known as: Upset tummy. E.g. A dog ate all the leftovers and is now feeling unwell with diarrhoea.
CancerCancer or neoplasia relates to the body’s own cells growing and multiplying in an uncontrolled fashion. These abnormal cells can form abnormal masses called tumours. If not diagnosed early, cancer cells can divide substantially and spread to vital organs disrupting normal body function. Also known as: Cancer treatment, cancer care, tumour, lump. E.g. A dog has a fast-growing mass on his back which is later diagnosed as a Mast cell tumour.
Embedded grass seedsGrass seed originates from long grass and can get caught on your pet’s fur. On occasion, seeds can get embedded in the paws, skin, eyes, nose and/or ears and result in infection and disease. Unfortunately, the body is not able to break down the seed and your animal may require surgical removal. Also known as: Awns E.g. A dog is limping and has a swollen paw due to an embedded grass seed.
Tick paralysisTick bites by the paralysis tick Ixodes holocyclus can cause rapid ascending paralysis due to the release of neurotoxins found in the tick’s saliva. If untreated animals can die quickly from respiratory arrest. This disease is common on the East coast of Australia, but thankfully is the risk is reduced with regular tick prevention and daily tick searches. Also known as: Ticks, Ixodes holocyclus E.g. After coming back from a weekend on the coast, your dog is not behaving normally, is shaky, has an unsteady walk and their bark sounds abnormal.
Ear and eye conditionsRelates to disease affecting the ear canal which is most often due to infectious causes and/or an underlying allergy. However, parasites, foreign body, immune disease, trauma, neoplasia, congenital abnormalities are other causes that can result in ear diseases. Eye disease can have multiple causes such as infectious (e.g. viral and bacterial), trauma, congenital, endocrine (diabetes melitus), and degenerative causes. Also known as: Infections E.g. A cat infected by Feline Herpes Virus with red and weepy eyes or a dog with a scratch in his eyes from running in long grass.
Skin conditionsRelate to a wide range of diseases that affect the skin of your pet(s). Depending on the cause of the skin condition, the symptoms will vary broadly. Most common clinical manifestations are itchiness, rashes, loss of hair, change in the pigmentation of your animal skins. Also known as: Contact allergies; bacterial infections; fungal infections, and parasite allergies E.g. A cat with loss of hairs around her tail and lower back that seems very itchy.
Cruciate ligament conditionsThis condition most commonly affects dogs and is similar to the human ACL (Anterior Cruciate ligament) of the knee. It is a band of tissue that stabilises the inside of the knee and attachment between the femur and tibia of your animal. Most commonly, the cruciate ligament ruptures due to trauma or degeneration. Also known as: Knee disease. E.g. A dog yelped while chasing its ball at the park, he has been limping since then.
Hip and elbow dysplasiaBoth conditions are related to the abnormal development or growth of the Hip and Elbow joints resulting in disease. Hip dysplasia relates to dysfunction of the joint between the pelvis and femur resulting in pain, lameness, arthritis and limited mobility. Similarly, Elbow dysplasia relates to abnormal development of the joint between the humerus, ulnar and radius (elbow). Also known as: Elbow and hips lameness. E.g. A young, large and rapidly growing German Shepherd dog is lame on his forelimbs.
Intervertebral Disc Disease (IVDD)Degenerative disease that affects the spinal cord of your animal and most often relates to the herniation of an intervertebral disc. It is often age related and over represented in some breeds such as Dachshunds. Also known as: Spinal disorder E.g. A Dachshund is suddenly having difficulty using his back legs.
Emergency vet careIf your animal is suddenly suffering from an illness or injury and requires immediate medical intervention and treatments. This can be at any time on any day. E.g. Your cat fell from the balcony and is now bleeding from its nose and mouth.
HospitalisationIf your animal is required to stay in hospital for continuous care, treatment and monitoring by veterinary professionals. E.g. Your dog was diagnosed with tick paralysis and will need to stay in hospital for monitoring of disease progression and continuous treatments such as IV fluids. E.g. A dog has an acute anaphylactic reaction to a bee
Hip Joint SurgeryThis surgery may be recommended for patients with severe hip disease affecting the acetabulum (hip joint socket) and femoral head. This type of surgery may involve replacing the whole hip joint by a prosthetic implant.
RadiologyMedical imaging which enables your veterinarian to assist in the diagnosis and treatment of disease within your animal’s body. Several types of diagnostic radiology exams exist and are required depending on the type of symptoms and disease your animal is experiencing. E.g. Your dog ate a sock and is now vomiting and not himself, an x-ray may help your veterinarian to see if there is an intestinal blockage and where it is located.
X-raysMedical tool that enables the visualisation of tissues and structures within your animal’s body. The images obtained depending on the density of the structures present are most useful for dense tissues such as bones. However, the level of details obtained through X-rays are limited. E.g. Your dog was hit by a car and is now lame and non-weight bearing on his forelimbs.
CT scansCT scan provides a 3D image that offers much higher levels of details of the body structures. It enables your veterinarian to better evaluate bones, soft tissues and blood vessels all at the same time. A CT scan takes more time than a regular X-ray and also costs more. E.g. Your cat has been having seizures due to a mass located in its brain.
MRIsMRIs are another type of medical imaging technique that takes cross-sectional images of your animal’s body that offers high quality 3D images. They are often the modality of choice for soft tissue injuries and diseases such as back pain. E.g. A dog is presenting for hindlimb paralysis w
Medication and drugsYour veterinarian may prescribe your pet with medications for the treatment and prevention of a condition your animal is suffering from. In some instances your veterinarian may write you a script so you can purchase medication from a chemist.
ChemotherapyChemotherapy is a type of cancer treatment that uses medications that are anti-cancer. It uses powerful chemicals that intend to slow down or kill rapidly dividing cells in your animal’s body such as cancer cells. It may be used on its own or in combination with other medications. Also known as: Anti-cancer medications. E.g. Your pet was diagnosed with bone cancer and is now receiving chemotherapy once a month in the aim of prolonging your pet’s life.
Vaccine preventable diseasesVaccine preventable diseases relate to known infectious diseases caused by either bacteria and/or viruses where the risk can be reduced by the use of vaccines. These diseases include in dogs; Canine distemper virus (CDV), Canine adenovirus (CAV), Canine parvovirus (CPV-2), Parainfluenza virus (PI), Bordetella bronchiseptica (Bb) and Leptospira interrogans. In Cats these diseases are Feline Parvovirus (FPV), Feline calicivirus (FCV), Feline herpesvirus (FHV-1), Feline leukaemia virus (FeLV), Feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV), and Chlamydia felis.
Emergency boardingIn the instance that you are hospitalised for more than 4 consecutives days and no one else is able to look after your pet it may be necessary for your animal to be boarded at a licensed kennel or cattery.
Motor Vehicle accidentIf your animal has been directly involved in a motor vehicle accident which resulted in injuries and required veterinary attention.
FracturesConsist of a break and/or crack in the continuity of any bone(s) in the body. The bone(s) may be completely or partially fractured. Bone fractures are often a result of trauma, fall or injuries but can also be a result of illness or a specified condition. Also known as: Broken bones E.g. A cat jumped from the balcony and broke its left forelimb.
PoisoningDisease due to swallowing, inhaling, injection or absorption through the skin of various toxic compounds such as chemicals, gases, drugs and radiation. Ingestion of chocolate is toxic to dogs and would be considered poisoning. Also known as: Toxicity E.g. A dog swallows bleach from the laundry.
Acute Allergic reactionsConsist of the immune system overreacting against a substance recognised as foreign to the body. The signs and symptoms vary largely depending on the type of allergy and individual patients which could impact the immune-system, skin, cardiorespiratory system and/or gastrointestinal system of your pet. E.g. A dog has an acute anaphylactic reaction to a bee

Mozo Pet Insurance Award Winners 2024: Petsy Pet Insurance

Petsy wins Mozo Experts Choice Award 2024 for Exceptional Quality Pet Insurance

We’re thrilled to announce some exciting news – Petsy has been awarded the Mozo Experts Choice 2024 for Exceptional Quality Pet Insurance! This recognition highlights our ongoing commitment to help offer innovative pet insurance solutions that prioritise the well-being of our beloved pets.

At Petsy, pets are more than just animals—they’re family. Petsy Pet Insurance helps pet parents prepare for the unexpected, providing support when it’s needed most and helping to ease the financial stress of expensive vet bills.

Why Petsy Stood Out to Mozo Experts:

  • Customisable Plans: We offer flexible options to suit different budgets and needs, including adjustable benefit percentages, annual limits, and annual excess options.
  • Transparent Policies: With no sub-limits and a complimentary pre-existing condition assessment when you join, we help to provide transparency upfront in our coverage, which means less surprises at claim time.
  • Optional Extras: From optional coverage for dental illnesses to behavioural conditions and specialised therapies, our optional extra benefits offer extra things you can add to your pet insurance to help cover conditions and treatments that aren’t included as standard.
  • How we take care of you and your pet: Pet parents have praised us for providing top-notch coverage with best-in-class customer support.

This award reflects our commitment to delivering value, quality, and care to Australian pet parents.

About Mozo

Mozo is one of Australia’s most trusted financial comparison platforms, dedicated to helping consumers make informed decisions about their finances. Established in 2008, Mozo has grown into a household name by offering easy-to-use tools and unbiased comparisons for a wide range of products, including banking, insurance, loans, and energy plans.

What sets Mozo apart is its commitment to transparency and accuracy. Their team of experts rigorously analyses products across the market, assessing value, quality, and customer benefits. This ensures that the information they provide is not only comprehensive but also fact-checked and reliable.

Each year, Mozo recognises outstanding products and services through its Mozo Experts Choice Awards. These awards are based on detailed, independent analysis and are a mark of excellence for companies that consistently deliver top-tier services to their customers.
Mozo’s platform is designed with the consumer in mind, featuring interactive tools, real-time comparisons, and educational content to guide Australians in making financial choices that suit their unique needs. By leveraging Mozo, millions of Australians have found better deals and saved money on essential services.

A Message of Thanks

To our members and their pets – Thank you. Your trust in Petsy inspires us to continually improve and find new ways to better support you. This award is as much yours as it is ours, and we’re honoured to be part of your pet’s journey, especially when we can help a furry friend get back on their paws.

Discover the Petsy Difference:

We understand the special bond between pet parents and their furry family members. That’s why we’re committed to providing pet insurance that puts your pet’s well-being first—so you can focus on what truly matters: caring for your best mate.

If you’re not already part of the Petsy family, now’s the perfect time to see why we’ve been recognised as one of Australia’s top pet insurance providers by Mozo and more.

Protect your pet with insurance that’s designed with pet parents in mind—plus, no sub-limits on claimable conditions.

Get a quote

Taking the pain out of pre-existing conditions

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To help pet parents get the most from their pet insurance policies, we’ve recently made some changes to how pre-existing conditions are handled for all Petsy together with Petinsurance.com.au pet insurance policies, as of 1 December 2020.

What is a pre-existing condition?

A pre-existing condition refers to any health condition (diagnosed or otherwise) that your pet has shown signs of before the purchase of a pet insurance policy (or its applicable waiting period), meaning the condition will not be covered under the policy.

What’s changed?

Not all pre-existing conditions are created equal. To help pet parents claim for more eligible conditions, pre-existing conditions are now assessed differently depending on whether they are considered a temporary or a chronic condition.

temporary pre-existing condition is a pet health condition that usually resolves with treatment and is removed from your policy as an exclusion automatically if your pet hasn’t shown signs of that condition for 18 months or more.

chronic pre-existing condition is a pet health condition that requires ongoing care or is more prolonged in nature, so if your pet displays one of these conditions prior to the purchase of a pet insurance policy or its waiting period, it will never be coverable under the policy.

Some of these conditions include:

  • Cruciate ligament conditions
  • Intervertebral disc disease
  • Hip dysplasia
  • Elbow dysplasia
  • Patella luxation
  • Endocrine diseases
  • Any other chronic condition

An important reminder that these exclusions only relate to pre-existing conditions.
If your pet requires treatment after the purchase of a pet insurance policy and its waiting period, all conditions outlined in the policy’s Product Disclosure Statement will be eligible for cover for the life of the policy.

Let’s take a quick look at some examples to help differentiate the difference between a temporary pre-existing condition (which can be removed as an exclusion after the 18 month asymptomatic period), and a chronic pre-existing condition (which will always be excluded if pre-existing).

Bella’s Gastroenteritis

Before taking out a pet insurance policy, your pet Bella has a case of Gastroenteritis (a tummy upset). The condition is treated and Bella recovers. Following the surprise episode, you decide to purchase a pet insurance policy for Bella to help with future, unexpected Vet visits.

Two years later, Bella has another unrelated case of Gastroenteritis. Can you claim for this condition?

Yes! The Gastroenteritis is considered a temporary condition, given that it resolved with treatment, it’s not on the list of excluded conditions in the policy’s Product Disclosure Statement (PDS) and the two episodes were not related. There was also more than 18 months between each condition.

Archie’s Luxating Patella

You’ve noticed your pet Archie is limping a little on his rear leg. Your Vet diagnoses him with a Luxating Patella (a dislocating kneecap).

15 days ago, you took out pet insurance for Archie, meaning you’re currently mid-way through the policy’s waiting period for this condition. That means treatment for this condition is not covered by your policy given it arose during the applicable waiting period, as outlined in the policy’s Product Disclosure Statement (PDS).

Two years later, Archie requires surgery for the Patella Luxation. Can you claim for this condition?

No. You and your Vet were both aware of this condition during the pet insurance policy’s waiting period, so it’s not eligible for cover (as outlined in the policy’s PDS). Patella Luxation is also defined as a chronic condition in the policy’s PDS, so as a result it remains ineligible for cover two years later.

Max’s Demodex Mites

Your puppy Max had Demodex Mites 18 months before having a pet insurance policy, which resolved with treatment from your Vet.

Two years later, Max is diagnosed with a new case of Demodex Mites. Can you claim for this condition?

Yes! The first episode of demodex mites was a temporary condition that resolved with treatment, and it’s not considered an excluded condition in the policy’s Product Disclosure Statement (PDS). Max also didn’t show signs, symptoms or abnormality in relation to the condition for more than 18 months.

Daisy’s broken leg

You first got pet insurance for Daisy when she was just 10 weeks old. Now at age three, Daisy broke her leg, and needs emergency treatment by your Vet. Can you claim for this condition?

Yes! As your selected pet insurance policy provides cover for accidents like broken bones (as outlined in your Product Disclosure Statement (PDS)) and the policy’s waiting period has passed, the condition isn’t considered pre-existing (i.e. known to you or your Vet prior to the commencement of your policy), and you’ve renewed your policy continuously each year without a break in cover, you’re able to claim for Daisy’s broken leg.

Want a pre-existing condition reviewed on your policy?

All temporary pre-existing conditions with a treatment date on or after 1 December 2020 are automatically removed as an exclusion from your pet insurance policy if your pet hasn’t shown signs or symptoms of that condition for 18 months or more, so there’s nothing more for you to do.

A chronic pre-existing condition is a pet health condition that requires ongoing care or is more prolonged in nature, so if your pet displays one of these conditions prior to the purchase of a pet insurance policy or its’ waiting period, it will never be coverable under the policy.

If you would still like to have a pre-existing condition on your pet insurance policy reviewed, you can do so anytime. Simply complete the pre-existing condition policy review form found here ,with your Vet and we’ll take care of the rest.

Where can I find the details of these changes in my Product Disclosure Statement?

We’ll be issuing new Product Disclosure Statements that outline all of these new terms shortly. You’ll find this available on our website here as of March 2021.

For our existing customers, after March 2021 you’ll receive a new Product Disclosure Statement with your renewal documentation.

Disclaimer:

Terms, conditions, waiting periods, limits and exclusions apply. Petinsurance.com.au is issued by The Hollard Insurance Company Pty Ltd ABN 78 090 584 473, AFSL 241436, is arranged and administered by PetSure (Australia) Pty Ltd ABN 95 075 949 923, AFSL 420183 (PetSure) and is promoted and distributed PetSure’s Authorised Representatives (AR) Pet Insurance Pty Ltd ABN 38 607 160 930, AR 1234944 and Petsy Pty Ltd ABN 54 633 343 058, AR 1277359. Any advice provided is general only and does not take into account your individual objectives, financial situation or needs. Please consider the Product Disclosure Statement (PDS) to ensure this product meets your needs before purchasing. PDS andTarget Market Determination available at Petsy’s TMD page
GapOnly™ is a trademark owned by PetSure (Australia) Pty Ltd (Petsure), ABN 95 075 949 923, ASFL 420163. Insurance products are issued by The Hollard Insurance Company (ABN 78 090 584 473; AFSL 241436) and administered by PetSure through its Authorised Representatives and distribution partners. Any advice is general only and may not be right for you. You should consider the relevant Product Disclosure Statement or policy wording available from the relevant provider to decide if a product is right for you.

This article was written by

Before taking out a pet insurance policy, your pet Bella has a case of Gastroenteritis (a tummy upset). The condition is treated and Bella recovers. Following the surprise episode, you decide to purchase a pet insurance policy for Bella to help with future, unexpected Vet visits.

Can my pet get coronavirus? Get the facts.

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Coronaviruses/COVID-19 and your pets – what you need to know

Our vets provide their expertise on what you need to know about the Coronavirus/COVID-19

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What is a Coronavirus?

Coronaviruses are a large family of viruses which can cause illness in animals or humans. In humans, several coronaviruses are known to cause respiratory infections ranging from the common cold to more severe diseases such as Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome (SARS) and the recently identified COVID-19.

What is COVID-19 and can it infect pets?

COVID-19 is the disease caused by the recently identified coronavirus SARS-CoV-2. COVID-19 was unknown before the recent outbreak identified late last year.

Currently there is no evidence suggesting that dogs and cats can be a source of infection for COVID-19, or that they can become sick from the COVID-19 virus. COVID-19 is currently spreading through human to human transmission.  However, it is always a good idea to wash your hands with soap and water after contact with pets. This helps protect against various common bacteria, such as E. coli and Salmonella, that can pass between pets and humans.

There is a single dog in Hong Kong which tested a weak positive to the COVID-19 virus, however it is still being investigated whether this positive test result was due to environmental contamination or if the dog was truly infected. It is important to note the dog was not showing any signs of disease.  This is an evolving situation and information will be updated as it becomes available from the relevant human health and veterinary bodies.

Do dogs and cats suffer illness from any coronaviruses?

Feline infectious peritonitis virus (FIP) and canine coronavirus (CCV) are two coronaviruses which have been unfortunately present and causing disease in dog and cat populations for a long time. It is important to note that FIP and CCV are distinctly different and separate to the COVID-19 virus causing the current disease outbreak with humans. CCV generally causes mild gastroenteritis in dogs, and FIP is a progressive and invariably fatal systemic disease of domestic cats. Both cannot cause illness in people.

Does Petsy Pet Insurance provide cover for COVID-19 or other coronaviruses?

Feline infectious peritonitis (FIP) and canine coronavirus (CCV) are assessed as Illness conditions under a Petsy Pet Insurance policy and are generally eligible for cover under Illness subject to the exclusion periods and provided the condition is not pre-existing.

It is important to remember, the World Health Organisation (WHO) and veterinary bodies have advised currently there is no evidence dogs and cats can become sick from COVID-19. If there are any developments in relation to COVID 19 impacting dogs and cats, we will do our best to keep our customers informed.

Rest assured if your pet is currently displaying symptoms of coughing, respiratory issues or a fever/elevated temperature, you should seek veterinary advice, and know these conditions are generally coverable under your policy provided there were no signs or symptoms that occurred prior to the start of cover or during any applicable exclusion periods (and therefore considered a pre existing condition under the policy and excluded from cover).

What are vaccine preventable diseases?

Vaccine preventable diseases relate to known infectious diseases caused by either bacteria and/or viruses where the risk can be reduced by the use of vaccines. 

These diseases include in dogs; 

  • Canine distemper virus (CDV)
  • Canine adenovirus (CAV)
  • Canine parvovirus (CPV-2)
  • Parainfluenza virus (PI)
  • Bordetella bronchiseptica (Bb) and 
  • Leptospira interrogans 

In cats these diseases are:

  • Feline Parvovirus (FPV)
  • Feline calicivirus (FCV)
  • Feline herpesvirus (FHV-1)
  • Feline leukaemia virus (FeLV)
  • Feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV), and 
  • Chlamydia felis

Does Petsy Pet Insurance cover vaccine preventable diseases?

 With a Petsy Pet Insurance policy, we over coverage for a list of vaccine preventable diseases if you can provide sufficient evidence that your pet is up to date with their vaccinations. Vaccinatable diseases are not covered if the pet is not up to date with
vaccinations at the time of first occurrence of and at the time of treatment of a vaccinatable disease and/or related illness. 

If I am quarantined or hospitalised due to COVID-19 and can’t take care of my pet, can I seek assistance for emergency boarding?

If during the Period of Insurance, You are unexpectedly hospitalised for four (4) or more consecutive days, and it is not reasonable for someone who lives with You to look after Your Pet and is therefore necessary for Your Pet to board at a licensed kennel or cattery, We will reimburse a portion of Your incurred boarding costs for a
period of up to thirty (30) days up to the Benefit Percentage, subject to the Annual Excess and Annual Limit as shown in Your Certificate of Insurance.

If you are not hospitalised and are simply quarantined at home due to COVID-19, emergency boarding for your pet will not be covered.

Additional resources

Further information relating to the Coronavirus can be sourced from the World Health Organisation (WHO) or Australian Veterinary Association (AVA) websites:

https://www.who.int/emergencies/diseases/novel-coronavirus-2019

https://www.who.int/emergencies/diseases/novel-coronavirus-2019/advice-for-public/myth-busters

https://www.ava.com.au/coronavirus/

Petsy Pty Ltd (ABN 54 633 343 058, AR 1277359) (‘Petsy’) distributes and promotes Petsy Pet Insurance as an authorised representative of Knose Financial Services Pty Ltd (ABN 38 620 795 735, AFSL 536651) (‘Knose’). Knose is an underwriting agency acting under a binding authority as an agent for the insurer; (a) Pacific International Insurance Pty Limited (ABN 83 169 311 193)  (’Pacific) in relation to policies from 01 March 2023 or have an anniversary renewal date from 18 March 2023, and (b) the Australia branch of Allied World Assurance Company, Ltd (ABN 54 163 304 907) (‘Allied World’) in relation to policies purchased between 17 February 2022 and 28 February 2023 (inclusive) or renewed between 01 March 2023 and 17 March 2023 (inclusive).In all aspects of arranging this product, Petsy and Knose act as an agent of Pacific/Allied World (as the case may be) and not as your agent. Any advice contained on this website is general advice only and has been prepared without taking into account individual objectives, financial situation or needs and you should consider the appropriateness of any such advice, the Product Disclosure Statement (‘PDS’’) (Allied World PDS) and the Target Market Determination (‘TMD’’) (Allied World TMD) available via www.petsy.com.au or by calling 1300 952 790 before making a decision to acquire, or to continue to hold, the product.

Terms, conditions, limits and exclusions apply. Please refer to the PDS.

This article was written by Petsy Pet Insurance

What to do if your dog gets stung by a bee

Spending time outdoors is a natural part of being a dog and having access to fresh air, exercise and mental stimulation is vital to a dog’s happiness and well-being. While regular time outside is great for your dog, it also means they have to share the same space as insects, bees and other critters who live outside. Dogs are curious creatures and they investigate the outside world using their noses and paws, which also happen to be the two prime targets of insect stings. Dogs also love to run and chase things including insects which in some cases, protect themselves by stinging the dog.

How to identify if your dog’s been stung

If your dog has been stung, it’s important be aware of the signs so you can get them to the vet as soon as possible. The most common signs to look for are excessive licking or pawing of a particular spot. Other tell-tale signs include swelling, drooling, crying out or running in circles. If you notice your dog exploring a flower, plant or native bush and yelps in pain, they may have experienced a sting. The most common spots for bee stings on dogs include the pads of the feet, the mouth, and the face area.

Mild signs include swelling, scratching rubbing, licking or chewing at the sting. Severe signs include profound swilling, hives, vomiting and difficulty breathing.

If in doubt, take your dog to the vet immediately.

Multiple stings are dangerous.   Dogs who have been stung by multiple bees at once are more likely to have a reaction and may experience anaphylactic shock. If you suspect your dog has encountered multiple stings or has been stung inside the mouth or throat, take them to the veterinarian.

Bee and wasp stings are poisons. The two most common types of stinging insects are bees and wasps. The main cause of pain for the dog is the poison that is injected by the bee or wasp, not the small puncture wound created

Most of the time dogs get stung on their faces from getting too close to a stinging insect. They are also more likely to get bee stings than people as they tend to chase or play with things that move. A sting on your dog’s sensitive nose is particularly painful and they can get stung by several kinds of insects including bees, wasps and hornets. Some dogs may even get stung on the tongue or inside their mouth or throat if they try to bite or catch an insect. These stings can be dangerous as the subsequent swelling can close your dog’s throat and block his airway.

It’s important to note that not all stings are the same. Bees have a barbed stinger that detaches from the bee and will remain in your dog’s skin. For several minutes after the sting, the venom sack on the stinger will continue to pulsate and inject more venom into the area. Wasps and hornets on the other hand don’t have barbed stingers, instead they retain their and can sting multiple times.

Watch out for allergic reactions

Signs of allergic reactions include:

  • Redness
  • A flurry of yelping
  • Pawing at the muzzle or affected areas
  • Drooling
  • Vomiting
  • General weakness
  • Difficulty breathing
  • A large amount of swelling extending away from the sting site
  • A pained yelp or limp

If you notice your dog experiencing any kind of reaction, take your dog to the vet immediately.

What you can do to help

Stay calm

While seeing your pup being in pain may make you anxious and nervous, it will help your pup if try to remain calm while you make your way to the vet. Bee stings, though uncomfortable are rarely fatal with the proper precautions.

Keep an eye on your pup

Keep a close eye on your pup to see if the problem worsens. Signs could include significant swelling, hives, increased pain or signs of anaphylactic shock, like having trouble breathing. You should take your dog to the vet if you notice any of these signs. Once you arrive at the veterinary clinic, if the pet has symptoms consistent with a worsening allergic reaction, injectable therapy such as antihistamines, steroids and/or epinephrine may be administered. Do not give your dog any medication without consulting your veterinarian first.

Do your best to remain calm and give them all the love and support they need until they feel better.

These pups learnt their lesson and know they need to bee more careful next time!

Please note that any advice is general. For further advice and information, you should consult your veterinarian.

This article was written by Petsy Pet Insurance

Becoming a pup-parent: The 6 essential development deadlines in a puppy’s life

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If you’re bringing home a puppy, it’s crucial to understand the 6 essential canine development deadlines in a puppy’s life to help ensure you have a well-behaved companion for life.

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Puppyhood is a critical time and the success of your dog-human relationship is based on your teaching your puppy the rules and regulations of domestic living. Understanding this development period will have a profound and everlasting effect that will enrich your dog-human relationship for many years to come. An adult dog’s temperament and behaviour habits (both good and bad) are shaped during puppyhood – very early puppyhood.

Understanding these natural stages of learning and development will help ensure your pup has the best possible start to life and will help avoid many of the behavioural pitfalls that many dog-owners face.

The stages in a nutshell

 Before you bring your puppy home

Stage 1: Educate yourself on dogs

Stage 2: Learn how to evaluate a puppy’s development

Stage 3: Learn how to house-train your puppy

After you bring your puppy home

Stage 4: Socialise your puppy with other people and dogs (by 12 weeks)

Stage 5: Learn bite inhibition (by 18 weeks)

Stage 6: Preventing adolescent problems (by 5 months)

What’s with the rush?

Your pup’s first month in your home is the most crucial developmental period of his life. This is a short, make-or-break period which pretty much determines whether your puppy will develop into a well-mannered and good-natured companion that will bring joy to your life for many years to come, or whether your puppy will develop numerous, predictable behaviour problems and grow up to be fearful and unfriendly.

Before bringing home a puppy, understand that you will be faced with a crossroad with the course of your puppy’s development in your hands. The clock is ticking and there are only three months to get a lot of things done. Early socialisation and training will help to prevent the list of predictable behaviour and temperament problems.

Appropriate socialization and training are the biggest factors in determining how closely the dog will approach your view of perfection in adulthood. Any puppy can be a fantastic companion if properly trained and any puppy (regardless of breed and breeding) can also be difficult to live with if not properly trained and socialised.  No matter which puppy you choose, success or failure is entirely in your hands and your puppy’s behaviour and temperament largely depends on good care and training.

Environmental influences (socialisation and training) exert a far greater impact on desired domestic behaviour and temperament than genetic heredity. For example, the temperamental differences between a good (educated) Malamute and a bad (uneducated) Malamute or between a good Golden Retriever and a bad Golden Retriever are much greater than the temperamental differences between a Golden and a Malamute with an equivalent experiential and educational history.

Why is it important?

Misbehaviour can be one of the most prevalent reasons for re-homing dogs and for them being sent off to shelters. Minor house soiling and chewing mistakes sometimes leads to banishment to the backyard, where the dog may develop severe socialisation problems and learn bad habits.

Some of these predictable habits and problems can be prevented with responsible owner and puppy education.

Before you bring your puppy home

Development stage 1: Educate yourself on dogs and puppies

If you have decided that you would like to raise and train a puppy, before you go looking for puppies, you should complete your education about puppies. This includes understanding what puppies need and how they behave, deciding what kind of puppy you want and how to search for and select a suitable puppy.

Owners will need to learn how to teach the pup to go to the toilet, what to chew, when to bark, where to dog, to sit when greeting people, to walk calmly on the leash, to settle down and hush when requested, to inhibit his otherwise quite normal biting behaviour and to thoroughly enjoy the company of other dogs as well as people.

You’ll need to decide what breed you like, what breed matches your lifestyle, whether you want a pure-breed or mix-breed, when and where to get your puppy as well as whether you’d like to get a puppy or adopt an adult dog.

Remember, you are selecting a puppy to live with you for a long time. Choosing a puppy to share your life is a very personal choice – your choice. You will save yourself lots of unnecessary problems and heartbreak if your choice is informed and educated.

Ask yourself the following questions:

  • What breed or type of dog are you looking for and why?
  • How many dogs do you want in the household?
  • Do you want a male or female dog?
  • What age would you like the dog to be when you bring him into your family?
  • What type of dog would suit your lifestyle?
  • What size dog are you able to keep?
  • Do you want a mix-breed or pure-bred dog?
  • Will you look for a breeder or adopt from a shelter?
  • How much time can you allocate to grooming, exercise and training?

Evaluate the following:

  • Sensitivity to sounds and the puppy’s response to a variety of different noises like people talking, laughing, crying and shouting, a whistle, a hiss or a single hand clap.
  • Household etiquette and where they are choosing to eliminate in the house (comparing how many piles and puddles are in the toilet area versus on the floor will offer a good indication on where the puppy will eliminate when they arrive at your home).

You are choosing a pup to come and live in your home with you and adapt to your lifestyle so make sure the pup has been prepared as best they can for domestic life in general and suitable for your lifestyle.

Development stage 3: Learn how to house-train your puppy

Have a toilet training and chew toy training program ready to be implemented from the very first day your puppy comes home. Your puppy wants to please but needs to learn how. You will need to be the person who teaches the puppy the rules around the house. You can start by teaching your pup good habits from the first day she comes home. Good habits are just as hard to break as bad habits.

Your puppy will feel the need to bark, chew and eliminate during the day so they must be left somewhere where they can satisfy their needs without causing any damage or annoyance. House-soiling is a spatial problem and involves normal, natural and necessary canine behaviours (peeing and pooping) performed in inappropriate places.

Simple behaviour problems are so easily preventable, yet they are one of the most common reasons for people’s dissatisfaction with their dogs a. Teaching household manners should be your number one priority the first day your puppy comes home.

Toilet training can be accomplished by praising your puppy and offering treats when they go to the toilet in an appropriate area. Usually puppies urinate within half a minute of waking up from a nap and usually defecate within a couple of minutes of that.

Puppies have a 45-minute bladder capacity at three weeks of age, 75-minute capacity at eight weeks, 90-minute capacity at twelve weeks and two-hour capacity at 18 weeks. Releasing your puppy every hour offers you an hourly opportunity to reward your dog for using a designated toilet area. You do not have to do this precisely each hour, but it is much easier to remember to do so each hour on the hour.

Short-term confinement as a method of toilet training offers a convenient means to accurately predict when your puppy needs to relieve herself. Confining a pup to a small area strongly inhibits her from urinating or defecating, since she doesn’t want to soil her sleeping area. Hence, the puppy is highly likely to want to eliminate immediately after being released from confinement.

Toilet-training

Short-term confinement, whether to a crate or tie-down, is a temporary training measure to help you teach your puppy where to eliminate and what to chew. A dog crate is the best housetraining tool to help you accurately predict when your dog wishes to relieve herself and is the best training tool to help you to teach your puppy to become a chewtoyaholic. Once your puppy has learned to eliminate only in appropriate areas and to chew only appropriate objects, she may be given free run of the house and garden for the rest of her life.

Short-term close confinement allows you to predict when your puppy wants to go so that you may be there to direct him to the appropriate spot and reward him for doing the right thing in the right place at the right time. During the hour-long periods of close confinement, as your puppy lies doggo in dreamy repose, his bladder and bowels are slowly but surely filling up. Whenever the big hand reaches twelve and you dutifully release the pup to run to his indoor toilet or backyard doggy toilet to relieve himself, your puppy is likely to eliminate pronto. Knowing when your puppy wants to go allows you to choose the spot and most importantly to reward your puppy handsomely for using it. Rewarding your puppy for using his toilet is the secret to successful toilet training. If on the other hand the puppy were left in his playroom, he would most likely use his indoor toilet but would not be rewarded for doing so.

Teaching your dog to chew toys instead of the furniture

Sadly, the maddening pace of present-day domestic dogdom necessitates teaching your puppy how to enjoy spending time at home alone—not only to ensure your pup adheres to established household etiquette when unsupervised, but more importantly to prevent your puppy from becoming anxious in your absence.

A chew toy is an object for the dog to chew that is neither destructible nor consumable. If your dog destroys an object, you will have to replace it, and that costs money. If your dog consumes the object, you may have to replace your dog. Eating non-food items is extremely hazardous to your dog’s health.

 

In the wild, dogs spend a good 90% of their waking hours searching for food and the regular bowl feeding deprives them of this principal activity – searching for food.

In a sense, each bowl-fed meal steals the puppy’s raison d’etre, its very reason for being. Within seconds of gulping his meal, the poor pup now faces a mental void for the rest of his day with nothing but long, lonely hours to worry and fret, or work himself into a frenzy.

As the puppy adapts to fill the void, normal behaviours such as chewing, barking, strolling, grooming, and playing become stereotypical, repetitive, and maladaptive. Specific behaviours increase in frequency until they no longer serve any useful function except to pass the time.

 

Stereotyped behaviours cause the release of endorphins, perpetuating their repetition, and in a sense, the dog becomes drugged and hooked on mindless, repetitive activity. Stereotyped behaviours are like behavioural cancers; as they progressively increase in frequency and squeeze most useful and adaptive responses from the dog’s behaviour repertoire until eventually the “brain-dead” dog spends hours on end barking, pacing, chewing himself, or simply staring into space.

A vital facet of your puppy’s early education is to teach him how to peacefully pass the time of day. Feeding your puppy’s kibble only from hollow chew toys—Kong’s, Biscuit Balls, and sterilized bones—keeps your puppy happily occupied and content for hours on end. It allows the puppy to focus on an enjoyable activity so that he doesn’t dwell on his loneliness.

Each piece of extracted kibble also rewards your puppy for settling down calmly, for chewing an appropriate chew toy, and for not barking.

Teaching your dog to enjoy his own company while you are gone

Teach your puppy how to settle down calmly and quietly when you are absent by teaching him how to settle down with chew toy at time when you are present. Right from the outset, make frequent quiet moments part of the puppy’s daily routine.

When playing with your pup, have him settle down for frequent short interludes every one or two minutes. Initially, have the pup lie still for a few seconds before letting him play again. After a minute, interrupt the play session once more with a three-second settle-down. Then try for four seconds, then five, eight, ten, and so on.

Although being yo-yoed between the commands “Settle down” and “Let’s play” is difficult at first, the puppy soon learns to settle down quickly and happily. Your puppy will learn that being asked to settle down is not the end of the world, nor is it necessarily the end of the play session, but instead that “settle down” signals a short timeout and reward break before he is allowed to resume playing. If you teach your puppy to be calm and controlled when told, you will have years of fun and excitement ahead.

Once your puppy has learned to settle down and shush on cue, there is so much more your dog can enjoy with you as this well trained dog will be invited to many adventures like trips in the car, picnics, visits to the pub and dog-friendly activities.

On the other hand, if you allow your puppy to run amok when he is a puppy, there is no doubt that he will want to run amok when he is an adult. Try your best to teach your puppy to enjoy his own company, to develop self-confidence, and to stand on his own four paws.

 

When you are at home (short-term confinement)

It is important to supervise your puppy. When the two of you are not play-training, confine your pup for an hour at a time to her doggy den (short-term confinement area), such as a portable dog crate.

The purpose of short-term confinement is threefold:

  1. To prevent mistakes around the house
  2. To teach your puppy to become a chewtoyaholic (since chew toys stuffed with food are the only chewables available), so that she learns to settle down quickly, quietly, and calmly
  3. To be able to predict when your puppy needs to eliminate

When you’re not at home (long-term confinement)

An example of long-term confinement is containing your puppy in a small puppy playroom like the kitchen, bathroom, utility room, or section of the room cordoned off by an exercise pen. Include a comfortable bed, a bowl of clean fresh water, plenty of hollow chew toys (Kong products and sterilized bones stuffed with dog food), and a doggy toilet in the farthest corner from her bed.

The purpose of a long-term confinement area is twofold:

  1. To prevent mistakes around the house
  2. To maximize the likelihood that your puppy will learn to use the provided toilet, to chew only chew toys (the only chewables available), and to settle down calmly and quietly (without barking)

Housetraining recap

When you are away from home, keep your puppy confined to her puppy playroom, where she has a suitable doggy toilet.

Otherwise, when you are at home:

  1. Keep your puppy closely confined to her doggy den, or on-leash by her bed.
  2. Every hour on the hour, release your pup from confinement and quickly run her (on-leash if necessary) to the toilet area. Instruct your pup to eliminate and give her three minutes to do so.
  3. Enthusiastically praise your puppy, offer her three freeze-dried liver treats, and then play/train indoors or in the yard. (Once your puppy is over three months old, take her for a walk as a reward for eliminating in her toilet area.)

After you bring your puppy home

Development stage 4: Socialise your puppy with other people and dogs (by 12 weeks)

A dog’s temperament, especially his feelings toward people and other dogs, is primarily the result of his level of socialisation during puppyhood—the most important time in a dog’s life.

Your puppy should be socialised with people before he is twelve weeks old. As a rule of thumb your puppy needs to meet at least one hundred different people during his first month at home. To capitalize on the time your pup needs to be confined indoors, you can invite people over.

Puppies that enjoy the company of people grow up into adult dogs that enjoy the company of people. And dogs that enjoy the company of people are less likely to be frightened or bite.

Many puppy training techniques focus on teaching your puppy to enjoy the company and actions of people. Well-socialised dogs are confident and friendly, rather than fearful and aggressive. For under socialised dogs, life is unbearably stressful.

Socialising your puppy to enjoy people is vital—second only in importance to your pup learning to inhibit the force of his bite and develop a soft mouth. Socialisation must never end. Remember, your adolescent dog will begin to de-socialise unless he continues to meet unfamiliar people every day. Walk your dog or expand your own social life at home if this becomes the case.

There are 3 goals of socialisation:

Goal 1: Teach your puppy to enjoy the presence, actions, and antics of all people—first the family, and then friends and then strangers, especially children and men. Adult dogs tend to feel most uneasy around children and men, especially little boys. A dog’s antipathy toward children and men is more likely to develop if the puppy grows up with few or none around, and if the puppy’s social contacts with children and men have been unpleasant or scary.

Goal 2: Teach your puppy to enjoy being hugged and handled (restrained and examined) by people, especially by children, veterinarians, and groomers. Specifically, teach your puppy to enjoy being touched and handled in a variety of “hot spots,” namely, around his collar, muzzle, ears, paws, tail, and rear end.

Goal 3: Teach your puppy to enjoy giving up valued objects when requested, especially her food bowl, bones, balls, chew toys, garbage, and paper tissues.

 

Development stage 5: Learn bite inhibition (by 18 weeks)

Bite inhibition is the single most important quality a dog must learn. The narrow time window for developing a “soft mouth” begins to close at four and a half months of age.

Puppy biting is a normal, natural and necessary puppy behaviour. Puppy play-biting is the means by which dogs develop bite inhibition and a soft mouth. The developing puppy should learn that his bites can hurt long before he develops jaws strong enough to inflict injury. A puppy must learn his limits and can only learn his limits by exceeding them during development and receiving the appropriate feedback.

The greater the pup’s opportunity to play bite with people, other dogs and other animals, the better his bite inhibition will be as an adult.

 

Good bite inhibition does not mean that your dog will never snap, lunge, nip, or bite. Good bite inhibition means that should the dog snap and lunge, his teeth will seldom make skin contact, and should the dog’s teeth ever make skin contact, the inhibited “bite” will cause little, if any, damage.

Bite inhibition is of crucial importance, by far the single most important quality of any dog, or any animal. Living with a dog that does not have reliable bite inhibition is unpleasant and dangerous. Bite inhibition must be acquired during puppyhood.

Bite inhibition training comprises first teaching the puppy to progressively inhibit the force of his bites until painful puppy play-biting is toned down and transformed into gentle puppy mouthing, and then, and only then, teaching him to progressively inhibit the incidence of his mouthing. Thus, the puppy learns that mouthing is by and large inappropriate and that any pressured bite is unacceptable.

 

Teaching bite inhibition

The first step is to stop your puppy from hurting people: to teach him to inhibit the force of his play-bites. It is not necessary to reprimand the pup, and certainly physical punishments are not called for. But it is essential to let your puppy know that bites can hurt. A simple “Ouch!” is usually enough. When the puppy backs off, take a short time out to “lick your wounds,” instruct your pup to come, sit, and lie down to apologise and make up. Then resume playing.

If your puppy does not respond to your yelp by easing up or backing off, an effective technique is to call the puppy a “Bully!” and then leave the room and shut the door. Allow the pup a minute or two time-outs to reflect on the association between his painful bite and the immediate departure of his favourite human playmate. Then return to make up.

It is important to show that you still love your puppy, only that his painful bites are objectionable. Have your pup come and sit and then resume playing once more. It is much better for you to walk away from the pup than to physically restrain him or remove him to his confinement area at a time when he is biting too hard. So, make a habit of playing with your puppy in his long-term confinement area.

This technique is remarkably effective as it is precisely the way puppies learn to inhibit the force of their bites when playing with each other. If one puppy bites another too hard, the bite yelps and playing is postponed while he licks his wounds. The biter soon learns that hard bites interrupt an otherwise enjoyable play session. He learns to bite more softly once play resumes.

Development stage 6: Preventing adolescent problems (by 5 months of age)

Behaviour is always changing, sometimes for the better, sometimes for the worse. Things will continue to improve if you continue working with your adolescent dog, but they will get worse if you don’t. Both behaviour and temperament will tend to stabilise, for better or worse, as your dog matures around his second birthday for small dogs or third birthday for large dogs. Even when your dog reaches maturity, you should always be on the alert for the emergence of unwanted behaviours or traits, which you must quickly nip in the bud before they become hard-to-break habits.

To ensure that your well-schooled puppy remains well socialised and friendly towards people, during adolescence and adulthood, he needs to meet different and unfamiliar people (especially children) every day.

Socialisation often heads downhill during adolescence, sometimes surprisingly precipitously. As they get older, dogs have fewer opportunities to meet unfamiliar people and dogs. Puppy classes and parties are often a thing of the past and most owners have established a set routine by the time their dog is five or six months old. At home, the dog interacts with the same familiar friends and family, and is walked, if at all, on the same route to the same dog park, where they encounter the same old people and the same old dogs. Consequently, many adolescent dogs become progressively de-socialised toward unfamiliar people and dogs until eventually they become intolerant of all but a small inner circle of friends.

Remember, your dog will only remain sociable if he continues meeting and greeting unfamiliar people and unfamiliar dogs every day. Meeting the same people and dogs over and over is not enough. You want your dog to practice the art of meeting and getting along with strangers, not simply getting along with old friends.

As soon as it safe for your puppy to go out, take him on walks – lots of them. There is no better overall socialisation exercise and no better overall training exercise. Dog walks are also good for your health, heart and soul. The secret to a well-socialised adult dog is at least one walk a day and a couple of trips a week to the dog park. Try to find different walking routes and different dog parks so that your dog can meet a variety of dogs and people.

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